|  Author | Topic: Substituting rail 16 (Read 63 times) |
kevkon
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Karma: 192 |  | Substituting rail 16
« Thread Started on May 4, 2009, 5:30pm » | ![[Quote]](http://s4.images.proboards.com/buttons/quote.gif) |
Here is a step by step guide on the process required to make a substitution of rail 16 ( or any other part of the kidnap ladder). Remember, this ladder has been exhaustively studied and recorded for 2 1/2 years so there's no room for error if a successful substitution is going to get by.
STEP 1: The very first step is probably the easiest, finding the proper species of would to enable a switch. In this case the wood required for rail 16 is Southern Yellow Pine. It's a very common wood found in the Southern states and used extensively for general construction. Typical of homes of the period, it would be employed as sheathing and subfloors. In the case of the Rausch apartment attic it was used as the attic floor.
STEP 2: Now that a source for the wood substitute has been found ( the attic floor) the next step is to verify that the flooring has been milld to the same thickness as the ladder rail and that the machine marks left by the surface planer match those of the original rail 16. That means that the milling marks left on the surface of the wood are from a planer with the same amount of blades revolving at the same speed and that the wood was fed thru the machine at the same rate as that of the original rail 16. Not so easy. there were numerous mills in the South processing Yellow Pine at that period supplying the lumberyards in the North. These mills used a variety of planers, cutterhead configurations and speeds. The chance that the wood on the attic floor is going to have the same machine marks ( or in other words was planed at the same mill using the same equipment and set-up) is an incredible longshot. Let's say by some incredible luck it happens to match, now on to step 3.
STEP 3: Now you have the right wood with the proper thickness and machine marks. You now have to match the grain, figure and knots to the rail. The attic has a fair amount of pine to pick from but it will soon be apparent that getting a proper length with a matching appearance will not be that easy. Another problem, what if the "perfect piece " happens to be in the field and not the first or last board? What would the odds now be that one could find the substitute rail with the very same thickness, planer marks and appearance and that this board would just happen to be the first course? Because if it's not, you have your work cut out for you. Another big problem, grain in processed wood runs according to how the board was cut from the tree it came from. It can run in many directions. You must be certain the grain in the substitute matches this. But that's pretty hard to ascertain with a board nailed to the floor. You also can't see the back face of that floorboard, will it to match the back of the ladder rail? Ok , now let's say you have managed to find the perfect match and incredibly it was on the first course and even more incredibly once pryed from the floor it's grain orientation and backface are a match, on to the next step.
Step 4: Now you must take this 1" x 6" floor board and make it the same overall size as the original rail. This involves ripping it to width and cutting to length. You must then "dress" the edges with a hand plane. To do this convincingly it would be advisable to have Hauptmann's tools at hand. That might not be so easy as they have been confiscated. Let's say it's possible and move on to the next step.
STEP 5: Now the substitute board must be mortised for the rungs and drilled for the dowel holes. To do this you must have; the original ladder ( or at least rail 16), Hauptmann's saws and some wood chisels, a workbench, and some sort of means to clamp the wood. You must make your cuts exactly as those on the original, anything less will be red flag.
STEP 6: Now that you have the substitute board cut and dressed to the proper size with all of the mortises cut and holes drilled you are ready to assemble it. You must have the complete ladder at hand for this task as well as the nails. This is a much harder task than one might think. That new rail is dry and hard with age so driving 8d common nails into without splitting it to pieces or sending a nail thru the side of the rail is quite a challenge.
STEP 7: OK, you now have a completed ladder with the new rail. But you are not done yet. That ladder has been around and it has been dis-assembled and re-assembled many times. That means the relatively soft woods (pine) used in it's construction has been damaged. Edges are no longer sharp, mortises have enlarged by the removal of the rungs. In essence it has been aged. You now must mimic this on your brand new rail.
STEP 8: You are almost done. Now for the last and probably most difficult step of all. You have just taken a piece of flooring from a nice dry and protected attic and substituted it for a rail on a ladder which has seen all types of exposure. The tone and color just don't match. Now here's the kicker; remember the Silver Nitrate used to expose latent prints? Well it left a permanent discoloration to the wood. What's worse, that discoloration has faded over time. You now must match this discoloration on the substitute rail. You can't simply apply Silver Nitrate as that would not match the faded color of the rest of the ladder. You must somehow dilute this stain or find some other agent to use. You have one shot at this, get it even slightly wrong and that new rail will stand out like a sore thumb.
STEP 9: You are done! Just get the ladder and tools back without anyone noticing.
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Michael
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Karma: 103 | | Re: Substituting rail 16
« Reply #1 on May 6, 2009, 6:03am » | |
This is an excellent post.
What I've learned is that sometimes things happen which neither school of thought interprets correctly. Of course all things must be properly investigated to get to the right place.
For example, the whole Rail 16 episode never made sense. The Police did some things they didn't want anyone to know about it. That's a fact. However, it's easy to quickly jump to the most obvious conclusion - especially if its the one we subscribe to. But of course sometimes the most obvious answer isn't the true one at all. It's like a mirage. I say "like" because its not water - but its not just sand either. Too often people look at this case as if things were either black or white. They simply don't consider the grey - so if something points to one side and eliminates the other they then stop their pursuit of the truth as if it had been answered - when it hasn't at all.
Many reasons exist for specific (or general) actions so we must run down all of them, however unlikely, and give them proper consideration.
It's how the Rail 16 matter was solved in my opinion. Both Rab and Kevin took a neutral stance then ran down and considered everything while the entire time resisted the irresistible temptation of jumping to conclusions.
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mairi
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Karma: 39 | | Re: Substituting rail 16
« Reply #2 on May 6, 2009, 8:38am » | |
That is terrific coverage, Kevkon. Not being savvy on wood I have printed it off so I can do some studying up on it. Thanx for posting that.
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kevkon
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« Reply #3 on May 6, 2009, 4:57pm » | |
Thanks and just let me know if you have any questions. As I hope you can see the whole process is quite time consuming. Worse then the time is the fact that you just can't forge a piece of wood. Each is unique , like a fingerprint.
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Michael
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Karma: 103 | | Re: Substituting rail 16
« Reply #4 on May 7, 2009, 5:59am » | |
Kevin,
Not to muddy the waters or undermine the point of your post....
But I was told by various Experts that trees growing around the turn of the Century, in the same stand, and same age - would have almost identicle growth ring patterns. This of course would have to take into effect other variables. I was also told that boards from the same tree could be identicle.
Keraga once pointed out the variable of mixing. This is something also to allow for when considering this possibility. Just do so within the proper time-frame - 1931.
I also think we'd have to explain HOW Koehler identified the Defense Exhibit as coming from the same board when it came from 2 different trees grown years apart. (Hint: Koehler wasn't perfect, he made mistakes, and wasn't always honest either).
Now having mentioned these situations above, I do believe both you and Rab got it right. It explains everything from soup to nuts. The boards, and the Police action concerning back-dated reports and the lies they were telling.
Seriously, great job! To say its a MAJOR accomplishment is an understatement. You've solved a major mystery once and for all concerning this piece of evidence. Think about that..... Since 09/34 no one has been able to do it.
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kevkon
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Karma: 192 | | Re: Substituting rail 16
« Reply #5 on May 7, 2009, 7:18am » | |
Yes, growth rings may be nearly identical. But that is only one part of the triad. The longitudinal grain and figure are the second and they will never be identical because there are so many variables at work in the growth of a tree. The third is how the tree is cut and processed especially how it runs through the saw.
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Michael
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Karma: 103 | | Re: Substituting rail 16
« Reply #6 on Oct 6, 2009, 4:12pm » | |
![[image]](http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/341/imageserver.th.jpg)
Testimony that "rail 16" of the Lindbergh kidnap ladder did not match a floorboard in Bruno Richard Hauptmann's attic, contrary to previous statements, was offered by Charles J. De Bisschop (above), defense wood expert. He Is shown In Flemington, N. J. (Associated Press Photo)
[Cornell Daily Sun, Volume 55, Issue 93, 9 February 1935, Page 2]
http://lindberghkidnap.proboards.com/ind....play&thread=525
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